I just inherited a Compur Solida Medium format 120 camera, and I would like to use it for fun.  However, I have loads of questions.

1)  What are good films.  I saw anything from velvia, portra, etc.  I would be shooting mainly landscape, and then getting them drumscanned (I think, I would want them on computer)

2)  What about b+w films, any recommendations

3)  I have acess to use a darkroom that we process Illford 35mm b+w negative film, and I really enjoy doing it, would I be able to do that with MF film, if it was b+w negatives?

4)  Is there any place to get this camera tuned up?  There are several thngs about it, like the timer for the SS is off, and the front element rotates, so the winder won't catch, so it opens the shutter without pressing the shutter control.  How much might this cost to repair?

5)  Is there a huge difference with film once it is expired?

6)  Where is a good place to get film developed and scanned?  Does mpix do mf.

7)  I love ultra detail, so I would love to get it scanned at max res, how much can I expect?

8)  It is non-slr type, and the viewer doesnt tell you what is in focus, so unless I can find his old pocket focuser, I will most likely be using infinity focus, and f/22.  What would the hyperfocal distance be, or how would I find out?

Sorry if this is ton of questions.  I'm so new to this, I have only used the aforementioned b+w film, and I didn't choose that.  Thanks for your help.

It's probably a Franka-Werk Solida, unless it's really old and it's a Welta.  Compur just made the shutter.

1)  Transparency film is said to be easier to scan because you don't have to deal with the orange film base of print film, but if you are getting the scanning done professionally it shouldn't be a problem.  Print film has more dynamic range.  Velvia is extra saturated.  Each film type and brand has it's own flavor.

2)  Once again, each has it's own flavor.  My advice would be to pick one or two and stick with them until you really know them.

3)  Yes.  You just need a 120 reel.  Some of the plastic reels can be expanded from 35mm to 120.

4)  The man for medium format folders is Jurgen Kreckel  http://www.certo6.com/index.html

5)  It can depend on how far past expiration it is, and how it's been stored.  Colors may fade a bit.  BW is usually okay.  If it's been kept cold it'll probably be fine.

6)  ? 

7)  It's going to depend on the lens and your shooting technique.  The f/2.8 80 Radionar has a pretty good reputation for lenses found in folders.  You'll need to practice and see what your minimum safe shutter speed is for hand holding.  I'd suggest 1/250th or faster for really sharp photos, but if you've got steady hands you may be able to go much slower.  You should be able to get image quality that compares to 35mm format digital, at least at slower ISOs.  The actual resolution is greater, but I've found that grain and other aspects of image quality tend to end up evening things out.  

8)  Google "DOF calculator".  You need one that allows you to input the format size.  I used to shoot a lot with old folders, and I'd make myself a little chart of the hyperfocal distances at the various apertures as well as the DOF for various focusing distances with the apertures I was commonly using.   Before I started using old folders I couldn't estimate distances very well, but I ended up getting pretty good at it.

Thanks for all the help Matt.  my shutter only does to 1/250, so I'll either use that, or a tripod.  It's not a frank-werk, or at least it doesn't match the picture on that site.  Is there any place that goes into the basic types of film?

Just a suggestion, see if the sell a digital back for that particular camera.

Cibamaca:

Just a suggestion, see if the sell a digital back for that particular camera.

I doubt it, it's a folding camera, and it looks like it's a 1940's camera.  Even if they weren't 10K+, it's a little old for that.  20mp, with D3 sized pixels is something sweet though

Eric L:

Is there any place that goes into the basic types of film?

The film manufacturers' sites have lots of info about their films:  Kodak, Ilford, Fuji, etc...

 Good links for medium format folders.

http://www.cleanimages.com/Article-MediumFormatInYourPocket.asp 

http://www.certo6.com/index.html 

http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/AnscAgfa.html 

http://medfmt.8k.com/ 

Thanks Matt.  I don't know why I didn't think to look at film manufacturers sites, and I will definitly be looking at those other sites as well.

 To me the differences between various films is a lot like Coke and Pepsi and other colas.  The manufacturers and some folks make a big deal about it, but really it's all amazingly similar.   In the 90's I worked in a full service lab and camera store, and at first I was trying new kinds of film everyday.  My boss once gave me some advice.  He said I was like a kid with the 128 pack of crayons, but didn't know what to do with all of them; I'd be better off by mastering the 8 pack of crayons first. 

Particularly if you are doing your own BW processing it's possible to alter the look of particular films.  When I hear someone comment on the "Tri-X look" I always want to ask "Tri-X in D-76 stock, D-76 1:1, or Diafine?", "Tri-X developed at 68F or 78F?", "Intermittent agitation, constant agitation, stand development, or two bath?", etc...  All of these variations, and there are lots more, will look different.  If you stick with one or two kinds of BW film you will learn how to tweak them so that they look like whatever you want.

C41 and E6 processed at a lab should be pretty consistent, so it's just a matter of finding which flavor you like and works best for you.    

Thanks Matt, I'll keep that in mind.  So much to learn and think about.